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BMW 3 of the E46 seriessince 1998 releaseRepair and operation of the car |
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BMW 3 of the E46 series - BMW 3 cars (E46) Identification numbers of the car Acquisition of spare parts Technology of service, tool and equipment of a workplace Poddomkrachivaniye and towage Start of the engine from the auxiliary power supply Checks of readiness of the car for operation Automobile chemicals, oils and greasings Diagnostics of malfunctions Governing bodies and methods of operation Governing bodies and devices Gas station Keys, uniform lock and anticreeping system Security alarm system * Window regulators The hatch with a lifting and movable cover * Seats Adjustment of provision of a steering wheel Mirrors Systems of safety Lock of ignition and start of the engine Parking brake Manual Box of Gear Shifting (MBGS) Automatic Transmission (AT) * Lever of the switch of indexes of turn / light signal Screen wipers and windscreen washers Heater of back glass Tempostat (automatic equipment of maintenance of the set speed) * The alarm system of emergency rapprochement at a parking (PDC) * System of automatic stabilization of stability with the ASC+T/engine torque regulator System of dynamic control of stability of DSC * The air pressure monitoring system in tires (RDC) * Lighting and light devices Heater, ventilation and conditioner of air of salon Equipment of salon Running in Features of driving of the car Catalytic converter Anti-blocking system of brakes (ABS) Disk brakes Brake system Luggage compartments Automobile phone * Readjustment of headlights Cowl Unlocking of a cover of the filling hatch manually Drive of a lifting and movable cover of the hatch manually * + Current leaving and service + Engine + Cooling systems, heating + Power supply systems, injection and release + Electric equipment of the engine + RKPP and transmission line + Automatic transmission + Coupling and power shafts + Brake system + Suspension bracket and steering + Body + Onboard electric equipment + Schemes of electric equipment |
Technology of service, tool and equipment of a workplace Marking of a class of durability of bolts (above - standard / SAE/USS, below - metric)
Marking of a class of durability of standard six-sided nuts
Marking of a class of durability of metric six-sided nuts
Marking of a class of durability of metric hairpins
Sizes/marking of a class of durability of standard (SAE and USS) bolts
Sizes/marking of a class of durability of metric bolts
Technology of service There are some techniques of performance of procedures of maintenance and car repairs on which the reader will find references in the text of this manual. Following will make by it work of the house mechanic of more effective, will allow to organize in the best way and qualitatively to execute various technical procedures and will be pledge of careful and full implementation of all works. Fixture Nuts, bolts, hairpins and screws serving for connection among themselves of two or more details are called as fixture. During the work with fixture it is necessary to remember some things constantly. Practically in any fixture this or that type of the kontryashchy and stopping adaptations is applied. It can be lock washers, lock-nuts, lock tags or the fixing compound for carvings. All used carving fixture has to be absolutely pure and direct, with an undisturbed carving and not rounded corners of six-sided heads which the wrench is put on. It is necessary to take obligatory replacement of the damaged nuts and bolts by the new for the rule. Special samokontryashchiyesya nuts with nylon or fiber inserts are not subject to a reuse as at an otdavaniye lose the kontryashchy properties and at assembly always have to be replaced with the new. Prirzhavevshy bolts and nuts for simplification of unscrewing and in order to avoid damage before an otdavaniye have to be processed by the special getting structure. Many mechanics prefer to use for this purpose turpentine which is convenient for putting from the special small canister with a long nose. After wetting of the "stuck" fixture by the getting structure before starting its otdavaniye, it is necessary to give to structure within several minutes properly to impregnate the oxidized contact layer. Strongly rusted fixture can be cut down by a chisel, is cut by a hacksaw or removed by means of a special gaykolom. When cutting a head of a bolt or oblamyvaniya of a hairpin on assembly, the rest of carving part can be drilled or taken by means of the special tool. The majority of auto repair shops can undertake performance by this, also as well as others (for example, restoration of the stripped thread in carving openings), repair procedures. Flat and lock washers at assembly have to be established always into place in the same order and the same way, as earlier. Always replace the damaged washers with the new. Between a lock washer and a soft metal surface (for example, aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic it is always necessary to establish flat washers. Fixture sizes For many reasons manufacturers of cars everything apply metric fixture wider and more widely. However, it is important to know a difference between used sometimes standard (called also American, or the SAE standard) and more universal in system of measures metric fixture as, despite external similarity, they are not interchangeable. All bolts, both standard, and metric are classified by diameter, a step of a carving and length. For example, the standard bolt 1/2 - 13 x 1 has an inch floor in the diameter, 13 rounds of a carving on one inch and length of 1 inch. The metric bolt of M12 - 1.75 x 25 has diameter of 12 mm, a step of a carving of 1.75 mm (distance between the next rounds) and length of 25 mm. Both bolts are externally almost identical, however are not interchangeable. In addition to the listed signs both metric, and standard bolts can be identified by survey of a head. For a start, the distance between lyska of a head of a metric bolt is measured in mm, whereas at the standard - in inches (the same is fair and for nuts). As a result, the standard wrench does not suit for use with metric fixture, and vice versa. Besides, on heads of the most part of standard bolts usually there are radial notches defining the maximum admissible effort of a tightening of a bolt (durability degree). The more the quantity of notches, the is higher admissible effort (on cars bolts with durability degree from 0 to 5 are usually applied). The class of durability of metric bolts is defined by a digital code. Figures of a code are usually cast, as well as for standard, on a bolt head (on cars bolts of classes of durability 8.8, 9.8, and 10.9 are usually applied). Also on durability class tags standard nuts can be distinguished from the metric. Dot tags are applied to identification of durability of standard nuts, proshtampovyvayemy on one of face surfaces of a nut while marking of metric nuts is made by means of besides figures. Than the quantity of points is more, or the value of a digital code is higher, the admissible effort of a tightening of a nut is higher. End faces of metric hairpins are also marked according to a class of their durability. Large hairpins are marked by a digital code whereas marking in the form of a geometrical figure is applied on smaller. It is necessary to notice that the considerable part of fixture, in particular durability class from 0 to 2, is not marked at all. In this case the only way of difference of standard fixture from metric is measurement of a step of a carving, or comparison of a carving with unambiguously identified. The standard fixture is also called often, contrary to metric, fixture of the SAE standard, however, it is necessary to remember that under classification of SAE only the small fixture gets. The large fixture with not metric carving is fixture of the American standard (USS). As the fixture of the same geometrical size (both standard, and metric) can have various classes of durability, when replacing on the car of bolts, nuts and hairpins it is necessary to pay attention to compliance of a class of durability of the established new fixture to a class of durability of the old. Procedure and order of a tightening of threaded connections The tightening of the most part of threaded connections should be made with the efforts determined by requirements of the Specifications provided in the beginning of each Chapter of this manual (it is necessary to understand the torque enclosed to it at a tightening as effort of a tightening of fixture). Below the effort of a tightening will be called also as the fixture inhaling moment. The tightening with excessive effort can lead to violation of integrity of fixture whereas the nedotyagivaniye conducts it to unreliability of connection of the interfaced components. Bolts, screws and hairpins, depending on material of which they are made also diameter of carving part, usually have strictly certain admissible moments of an inhaling, many of which as it was already mentioned above, are given in Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Strictly adhere to the provided recommendations about the moments of an inhaling of the fixture applied on the car. For a tightening of the fixture which is not mentioned in Specifications it is necessary to use the map of the admissible moments of rotation given below. The values given in the table are focused on fixture of classes of durability 2 and 3 (more high-class fixture allows a tightening with big effort), besides, it is meant that the tightening dry (with an ungreased carving) fixture in a steel or cast (not aluminum) detail is made. Sizes of metric carvings
Sizes of pipe carvings
Sizes of carvings of the American standard
The fixture located on perimeter of any detail (such as bolts of a head of cylinders, the pallet of a case and various covers), in order to avoid deformation of a detail has to be given and be tightened in strictly certain order. The order of a tightening and an otdavaniye of such fixture is given in the corresponding Heads of the Management. If the special order is not stipulated, in order to avoid a curvature of a component it is necessary to adhere to the procedure described below. At the first stage all bolts or nuts have to be tightened by hand. Further, each of them has to be in turn held on on one complete revolution, and transition of odes of one bolt / nut to another has to be carried out in a diagonal order (cross-wise). Further, having returned to the first bolt / nut, it is necessary to repeat procedure in the same order, tightening fixture for a half of turn. Continue to act in the same manner, tightening each bolt / nut this time already on a quarter of a turn for one approach until all of them are not tightened with the demanded effort. At a fixture otdavaniye it is also necessary to adhere to the described procedure, but working upside-down. Dismantling of components Dismantling of all components has to be carried out in such manner that at assembly each detail could be established on the former place and the correct image. Remember characteristics of appearance, in case of need make landing marking of details which installation can be into place made ambiguously (the persistent washer equipped with a flute on a shaft belongs to such elements, for example). The arrangement of the removed details on a pure working surface in that order in what their removal was made will be good idea. Useful will be also a drawing up the elementary schematic sketches or step-by-step photography of the component which is subject to dismantle. At removal of fixture try to make marking of its initial situation on assembly. Often, immediate installation of fixture and washers on a former place after removal of the corresponding detail allows to avoid confusion at assembly. In the absence of such opportunity, all fixture should be put in specially prepared for this purpose broken into sections and respectively the marked box, or it is simple on the separate marked boxes. Such line of action is especially useful during the work with the components consisting of a set of fine details such as the carburetor, the generator, the valvate mechanism, the dashboard or elements of a decorative upholstery of salon. At a detachment of electric contacts and sockets it is necessary to pay attention to marking of wires or plaits by means of an insulating tape with the digital or alphabetic code applied on it. Pro-masonry surfaces On all cars of laying are applied to sealing of a place of a joint of the interfaced surfaces of two or more details and serve for prevention of leak of oils and liquids and maintenance in assembly of an elevated pressure or depression. Often such laying before installation becomes covered by a liquid or pastelike sealing compound. Often under the influence of time, temperatures or pressure there is so strong "prikipaniye" to each other of the interfaced surfaces that division of details becomes an exigeant task. With many cases dismantle of such assemblies is helped by an obstukivaniye them outside on joint place perimeter a hammer with soft the brisk. It is possible to use for this purpose as well a usual hammer, striking blows through a wooden or plastic pro-rate. It is not necessary to make an obstukivaniye of cast cases and fragile components. Whether at emergence of such difficulties always first of all check all fixture it is removed. Avoid application for division of details a screw-driver or mount, entering them between the interfaced surfaces as sealing surfaces thus can be easily damaged that further can be the reason of emergence of leaks. If a podrychazhivaniye of the "stuck" elements of assembly it is impossible to avoid, use for this purpose the handle from old wit, but remember thus that after all formed chips have to be carefully removed from the interfaced surfaces and from within assembly. After division of details their interfaced surfaces have to be smoothed carefully out with scraping of traces of material of old laying. The hardened fragments of old laying can be previously softened by means of rust solvent or a special chemical composition then are removed from the interfaced surface with a scraper. As a scraper in this case the piece of a copper tube with the flattened-out and pointed end can be used. Use for this purpose of copper tube is recommended as copper is usually softer than the materials applied in the car that reduces risk of damage of the interfaced surface. Some laying easily can be removed by means of a copper brush, however, is not dependent on the applied method, the interfaced surfaces have to become absolutely pure and smooth. If for any reason the interfaced surface was scratched, before assembly of components fill scratch with pro-masonry sealant. In most cases it is necessary to use not stiffening (or semi-stiffening) sealant. Councils for removal of hoses
Measures of precautions which should be observed at removal of hoses are very close to that at removal of laying. Avoid damage of surfaces of unions and branch pipes on which hoses as it can be the reason of emergence of leaks put on. In a special measure it belongs to procedure of removal of hoses of a radiator. Owing to various chemical reactions occurs "prikipany" rubbers of hoses to the interfaced surfaces of unions and branch pipes. For removal of a hose first of all weaken a collar of fastening it on the union. Then nippers with the sliding hinge grasp a hose near a collar and start rotating it on the union / a connecting branch pipe to the right-to the left. Continue this procedure before liberation of a hose, then remove a hose from the union. A small amount of silicone or other greasing will facilitate procedure if it can be entered into a gap between the union and a hose. For simplification of procedure of installation of a hose grease an internal surface of a hose and an external surface of the union. As the last resort, or in case of unambiguous need of replacement of a hose by the new, put-on the union end of a hose for removal can be knifed and then is separated from an union surface. Thus try not to damage a knife union metal / under a connecting branch pipe. In case of damage of a collar of fastening of a hose replace it with the new. Collars of the twisted type usually weaken eventually therefore, regardless of their state, as required it is better to replace them with collars of screw type. Tool The choice of the good tool is one of the main requirements for everyone who plans independent performance of procedures of maintenance or car repairs. At first sight the expenses connected with acquisition of the demanded set of tools can seem too big, however at their comparison with the expenses interfaced to performance of procedures of routine maintenance and the elementary car repairs at car repair shop will be quite reasonable. To help the average motorist with a choice of the tool necessary at carrying out various procedures for care of the car described in this manual the lists of three tool kits which are conditionally entitled as are given below: a tool kit for routine maintenance and the minimum repair; a tool kit for the general and capital repairs and the special tool. The owners of cars who do not have practical experience of carrying out mechanical works have to begin with performance of the procedures limited to use of tools from the first list, improving thus the skills and gradually expanding the range of the used tool. In process of acquisition of experience it is possible to pass to performance of more complex challenges, supplementing the tool kit which is available on hands. After a while the received skills will allow to start performance of more difficult works demanding use of the tool from the second list (for the general and capital repairs of the car). When your qualification starts allowing to save considerable means on independent performance of difficult repair procedures, it is possible to think of acquisition of the special tool. Tool kit on routine maintenance and the minimum car repairs The list given below includes a minimum of procedures of routine maintenance and insignificant car repairs of tools, necessary for performance. Acquisition of a set of the combined wrenches (from ordinary Rozhkova by a head on one end is recommended and with cap on other), despite the big cost of such set in comparison with the cost of a set of ordinary Rozhkov of keys, expenses will be justified since these keys have advantages of both types. Set of the combined keys (1/4 - 1 inch; 6 - 19 mm) Adjustable spanner Set of measuring probes Nippelny key for pumping of brakes Screw-drivers: With a flat sting (length of 150 mm and 8 mm in the diameter) With a krestovy sting (No. 2 x 6 of inches (length of 150 mm) The combined flat-nose pliers Hacksaw with a set of cloths The manometer for measurement of pressure in tires Lubricant gun (syringe) The canister under oil Thin emery paper Wire brush The tool for cleaning of plugs and contacts of wires of the battery Key for removal of an oil filter Funnel (average size) Props for fixing of the car in the lifted state, 2 pieces Drain capacity Tool kit for the general and capital repairs of the car This tool is necessary when carrying out any operations on repair of the engine of the car and it is offered in addition to the first list. This list includes a complete set of replaceable face heads. At the considerable cost, the set of replaceable heads brings invaluable benefit, thanks to the universality and convenience in the address, - in particular in combination with the drives which are included in the package of various type. It is recommended to use preferably drives with a section of 1/2 inches (but not 3/8 inches) since they, though are more expensive, can be used practically with any type of dinamometrichesky keys (in an ideal, the good mechanic has to have both types of drives at the order). Cheaper alternative to a set of replaceable face heads is the set of tubular keys. Set of replaceable face heads (including heads like "Torx") (or tubular keys), the sizes corresponding to the sizes of wrenches from the previous list The ratchet reversive drive (for use with replaceable face heads) Collar 250 mm long Universal (cardan type) the hinge (for use with face heads) Dinamometrichesky key (with the drive of the same size, as for replaceable face heads) Hammer with round the brisk - 8 ounces (about 230 g) Hammer with soft brisk (plastic or rubber) (kiyanka) Screw-drivers: With a flat sting (length of 150 mm and about 6.5 mm in the diameter) With a flat sting (strong mm No. 2, 8) With a krestovy sting (No. 3 x 8 of inches (203 mm)) With a krestovy sting (strong No. 2) Clamping pincers Flat-nose pliers: Uzkonosy (nippers) For lock rings (internal and external) Chisel - 1/2 inches (13 mm) The scraper (made from the copper tube which is flattened out and pointed since one end) Skrayber (chertilka) Center punch Small beards with a thin sting (1.6, 3.2, 4.8 mm) Steel line / measuring instrument of planeness Set of keys hexagons (Allen) (for heads with an internal hexagon) Set of files Wire brush (big) Second set of props Jack (hydraulic or scissors type)
Special tool The tools which are adequately expensive, not required regularly, or demanding when using implementation of instructions of manufacturers get to this list. If frequent performance of difficult mechanical operations does not fall within the scope of your activity, acquisition of such tool will be bad investment of capital. It is reasonable to get it by sharing the cost with friends or to hire in workshops of car service. Only those tools which can be found in retail trade or which are issued for distribution on dealer offices of firms are entered in the list. Sometimes in the text of the Management you will find references to such special tools. Usually authors try to offer in parallel the alternative method allowing to avoid obligatory use of the remote tool. In case it is impossible to avoid use of the special tool, and its acquisition in use is problematic, it is better to entrust performance of the corresponding works to specialists of car service. The tool for compression of valvate springs The adaptation for a clearing of flutes of piston rings The tool for a staving of piston rings The tool for installation of piston rings The measuring instrument of extent of compression of gases in cylinders (kompressometr) Vertical drill for processing of edges of cylinders Hon for processing of mirrors of cylinders Measuring instrument of diameter of cylinders Micrometer (micrometers) and/or dial caliper The tool for removal of hydraulic pushers Separator of spherical hinges Stripper of universal type Impact driver Set of the dial measuring instrument The manual combined pump (vacuum/delivery) Tachometer Universal tester for electric measurements Lifting rigging The tool for removal/installation of brake springs Floor jack Acquisition of the tool The beginner mechanic in respect of acquisition of the necessary tool for performance of procedures of routine maintenance and car repairs can be offered some practical advice. By preparation for carrying out procedures of routine maintenance or the minimum car repairs it is reasonable to get the tool separately. On the other hand, in case of planning of broad works, it is simpler and more reliable to buy a set of the modern tool in shop of retail network. Acquisition of a set usually manages slightly cheaper than individual purchases and is often supplemented with the enclosed toolbox. Further, for expansion of a choice, separate tools, additional sets and a toolbox of the bigger size can be bought in addition. Gradual expansion of a set of tools will allow to stretch expenses and to be defined in a choice of really necessary tools. Specialized tool shops are the only source of acquisition of some special tools, but, irrespective of a source, avoid cheap purchases, in particular at a choice of screw-drivers and replaceable face heads as the term of their service for certain will be short. The expenses connected with replacement and restoration of the cheap tool as a result will appear incomparably more considerable, than costs of single acquisition of qualitative goods. Care of the tool and its storage The good tool is valuable investment of capital therefore it is reasonable to take care of keeping it clean and constant availability for service. After use of the tool before putting it in a storage place, always carefully wipe its surface pure dry rags, deleting from it traces of dirt, greasing and the remains of metal particles. Never leave the tool scattered on a workplace. After completion of works attentively check space under a cowl and under the car for existence of the forgotten tool. For storage of such tool as screw-drivers, flat-nose pliers, hammers, etc. the tool comb fixed in a convenient place on a wall of garage is ideally suited. Sets of wrenches and replaceable face heads should be stored in metal boxes. The measuring tool has to be stored in inaccessible to impact of corrosion, dry and pure places. Always it is necessary to pay attention to a condition of working surfaces of the tool. The shock part quickly of a hammer in the course of work is subject to a rasklepyvaniye, screw-drivers lose sharpening of the stings over time. Do not stint to find a little time and attention to that by means of an emery paper or a file to remove rasklepa and to put the cutting edges in order. It is irreversible the worn-out or damaged tool replace. At careful leaving the tool will serve to you belief and the truth during very long term. Equipment of a workplace Speaking about the tool, it is necessary to remember the equipment of a workplace. If carrying out more serious work, than simple maintenance is necessary, it is necessary to take care of training of the suitable worker of a platform. It is necessary to recognize that many motorists are compelled to make removal of the engine and other similar works not in the conditions of garage or a workshop. However, anyway the important requirement is existence of a roof or awning. Whenever possible, any procedures for dismantling of parts of systems of the car have to be made on a pure flat workbench, or a strong table of convenient height. The workbench has to be surely equipped with a vice. Existence of a vice with disclosure of sponges to 100 mm and with soft overlays for sponges is sufficient. As it was already mentioned above, on a working platform the pure dry place for storage of the tool, lubricant and cleaning liquids, hard putties, paints and varnishes, etc. has to be equipped. It is necessary to notice that absolutely necessary tool is the electric drill, therefore, the working platform has to be equipped with the power supply for its connection. Existence of a drill with the boss to 9.5 mm and a set of qualitative drills considerably will facilitate carrying out many procedures. At last, on a workplace always there has to be a sufficient stock of old newspapers and pure, not vorsyashcheysya rags, intended for cleaning of a working platform, the tool and details of the car. Working off should be handed over in the centers for utilization in tight container. Never perform any works on the barefaced painted car surface, use protective overlays for wings, or, at the worst, cover the polished surfaces with old blankets.
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